Miss Rachel's Pantry

So, I'm sending Twitter messages back and forth one day with Rachel Klein of the blog Miss Rachel's Pantry, and she says, "Hey, I have a little extra food left over today. How about I drop some off for you?"

Why does Miss Rachel have extra food? Because she's cooks up batches of vegan food that is sold locally at Green Aisle in South Philly, and at Greensgrow's Saturday farmer's market in Fishtown. Miss Rachel is also a personal chef, offering in-home vegan cooking or meal delivery. She caters special events, and has holiday meal packages, too, like the over 50 vegan Thanksgiving dinners she recently prepared!

Miss Rachel dropped off for me baked beans, collards, and mashed potatoes. It was like she knew all my favorite foods!

The skin-on, mashed red potatoes are home-style chunky, and lightly seasoned with garlic and truffle oil, letting the potatoes really shine through.

And, this Southern girl gives a huge thumbs up to Miss Rachel's tenderly cooked collards with just a hint of spice and sweetness. Studded with a few bits of sweet potato, I think I'm going to steal that trick the next time I make collards.

Man, oh man! Those slow baked beans in thick, sweet, tomato-based sauce with caramelized onions are a religious experience. These are not canned baked beans! As I went to wash off my plate before opening the dishwasher, I licked my plate instead of turning on the water. Yep, I licked my plate, that's how good Miss Rachel's baked beans are!

Miss Rachel is your girl, if you've ever wished to come home to a healthy, home-cooked vegan meal, or have someone else prepare a full vegan spread for an upcoming party. Miss Rachel even caters to bands on tour, so what ever you need, she can probably do it.

Check out Miss Rachel's site for details on meals and catering. And, for a quick fix, duck into Green Aisle for Miss Rachel's soups, or Greensgrow on Saturdays for Miss Rachel's sandwiches, casseroles and other sides.

Momofuku Milk Bar Cookies Invade South Philly

The Erace brothers, Adam and Andrew, purveyors of local fine foods at Green Aisle Grocery down on East Passyunk Ave. in South Philly, have magically made Momofuku Milk Bar cookies available to Philadelphians who don't have the extra half day to venture to David Chang's renowned New York bakery, Milk Bar, headed by pastry chef Christina Tosi.

Fresh baked Momofuku Milk Bar cookies are FedEx-ed weekly to Green Aisle, and sold individually or in containers of six. I arrived at the South Philly grocer mere minutes after Green Aisle tweeted the arrival of the cookies (Green Aisle is great about tweeting new arrivals and specials, so be sure to follow them), and snagged one of each of the five varieties of cookies available — Corn, Chocolate Chocolate, Blueberry and Cream, Cornflake-Chocolate Chip-Marshmallow, and Compost Cookie — to put the cookies to the taste test and see if they lived up to the hype.
Let's just start with my favorite cookie out of the bunch, the Corn cookie. This soft, yellow cookie tastes not like corn bread, as you might imagine, but like the sweetest creamed corn you've ever had, but the cookie is not the over-sweet sugar bomb that some of the other Milk Bar cookies are. The Corn cookie is a unique and compelling flavor you won't find at most bakeries, so comes out top winner.The Chocolate Chocolate cookie has a deep chocolate aroma, is moist and chewy — like a cookie and fudge had a baby — with hints of salt enhancing the bitter and sweet. If you are a lover of chocolate, and want a deep chocolate flavor without the distraction of chocolate chips, this is the cookie for you.
The Blueberry and Cream cookie is sweet and chewy, studded sparingly with white chocolate chips, and perhaps too sparingly with dried blueberries. The "cream" part of the cookie is achieved by adding milk powder, but the "cream" did not shine through the sugar and butter. I guess I was hoping for more blueberry and cream.
The Cornflake-Chocolate Chip-Marshmallow cookie has crispy, toffee-like edges (due to the high sugar and butter content, many of Momofuku's cookies have toffee-like edges), and the soft center is studded with chocolate chips, crunchy little bits of cornflakes, and crispy/bendy melted marshmallow blobs. This cookie is incredibly sweet. I would have loved this cookie as a kid, but as even a sugar-loving adult, this cookie is a bit much.Out of the package, the Compost cookie smells like coffee, and that's because there are coffee grounds in the cookie. Also in the cookie are chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, graham crumbs, pretzels, and potato chips. Besides the hint of coffee, the Compost cookie and the Cornflake-Chocolate Chip-Marshmallow cookie are almost identical in that they are overbearingly sweet, soft cookies chock-full of sweet and savory goodies. Again, I would have loved this cookie as a kid.

Honestly, all of the Milk Bar Cookies taste great. And it's no wonder, because butter jockeys for first (!!) and second place in the ingredient list for every single cookie. I think Momofuku Milk Bar cookie receive such high praise because they are overly decadent with butter and sugar. The only cookie that truly impressed me was the Corn cookie, because it's unique and captures the flavor of fresh, sweet corn so well.

At $3.25 each, you can sample all of the Momofuku Milk Bar cookies, and decide on a favorite yourself. Just be sure to get to Green Aisle soon after Fed-Ex drops off the delivery, because they go lickety-split!

Green Aisle Grocery
1618 E. Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19148
215-465-1411

Last Call for MANNA Pies

This Friday, November 19, at noon is the deadline to order a MANNA (Metropolitan Area Neighborhood Nutrition Alliance) pie or cake from the "Pie in the Sky Bake Sale for Better Health."

With the purchase of every baked good, you're helping MANNA provide nourishing meals to Philadelphia area residents with life-threatening illnesses.

You can order online or from one of over 200 sellers. Apple, pecan and pumpkin pies, along with carrot, cheesecake with cherry topping, and chocolate fudge cakes are available for $25 each.

Pie pick-up dates are Tuesday, November 23rd, and Wednesday, November 24th, from one of the 60 pick-up locations most convenient for you.

There are many great charitable organizations to support during the holiday season (and year round), but MANNA is one of my favorites, because their baked goods just taste so good.

Sorghum and Bourbon Pecan Pie

Thanksgiving is around the corner, and pumpkin pie just might be the official dessert of the day, but pecan pie probably comes in second. I don't think I've ever suffered a Thanksgiving without pecan pie, thankfully.

But how to make pecan pie better? But not blasphemous with such additions like chocolate or orange zest. Better is as simple as ditching the light corn syrup, and going back to the era of your grandmother when she was using sorghum syrup or cane syrup. Oh, and a little bourbon isn't too out of line with traditions, is it?Sorghum syrup is a dark molasses extracted from sorghum, a tall grass that looks like earless corn. I'm using sorghum syrup in this recipe, but you could also use cane syrup, a similarly dark and deep molasses which is extracted from sugar cane. What Sorghum and cane syrup provides is an amber color and, most importantly, a depth of flavor that corn syrup does not have.So, you can bring this pecan pie to the Thanksgiving table without upsetting the traditionalist, but have your guests asking what makes your pecan pie more than just a one note, sugar and nut bomb. Sorghum and bourbon, you'll say!

Just so you know, this has to be about the simplest pie I've ever made. Also, I killed half of the pie in one sitting. Sorghum and Bourbon Pecan Pie
adapted from The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook by Matt and Ted Lee
makes 1 9-inch pie

I added bourbon to Matt and Ted Lee's recipe, guided by other bourbon pecan pie recipes. Most recipes added 2 tablespoons of bourbon, and some added 3 tablespoons. I added 2 tablespoons of bourbon. The bourbon flavor is strongest on day one (don't think I'd want to eat a 3-tablespoons bourbon pie on day one), and mellows on the second day. On day three, the bourbon is almost non-detectable. Add bourbon fittingly as to how long the pie will sit before serving. Day-old pie with 2 tablespoons of bourbon was pretty much perfect.

1/3 cup tightly packed dark brown sugar
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons bourbon
3/4 cup sorghum syrup
1 1/2 cups chopped pecans, plus some halves for decorating top
1 par-baked pie crust

• In a large bowl, beat together the brown sugar and eggs with an electric mixer until incorporated.
• Add the butter, cornstarch, salt, and bourbon to the bowl and mix .
  
• Add the sorghum and pecans to the bowl and mix.
• Pour filling into a par-baked pie crust. Decorate top of pie with pecan halves.
• Bake in a 375 degree oven for 35-40 minutes.
• Remove from oven, and let cool for 1 hour before serving. Can be made a day ahead.
  

Kyber Pass Pub Preview

Walking into Kyber Pass Pub, I wondered if anything had changed. Same dim lighting, same bar, same tiled bar floor, same jukebox. Feels like the Kyber I know, a dingy Old City bar and music venue, except, peek into the adjoining room where bands used to play, and the stage is gone and candle lit tables fill the long, narrow room.

Starting today, the Khyber reopens as Khyber Pass Pub, a gastropub serving grub with a Southern bent. The pub will be serving food and drinks in soft-opening mode until the grand opening on November 18. Thanks to the fine folks at Khyber Pass Pub, I was treated to a preview of the menu, which you can peep here. The menu features a mash up of normal pub food (wings, burgers, fries, onion rings), Cajun (po-boys on imported Leidenheimer rolls, gumbo, and fried oysters), barbecue (North Carolina-style pulled pork and brisket sandwiches and platters with choice of Kansas City, South Carolina — holla! — and North Carolina-style barbecue sauces), and soul food (Memphis-style fried chicken, biscuits, and collards).

Vegan and vegetarian options are clearly marked on the menu. While the meat-eaters plow through bacon grease popcorn with Cajun seasoning and oyster po-boys, vegans can order their own non-porky Cajun seasoned popcorn and seitan po-boys. There were a lot of vegan and vegetarian options, but the following is all we could manage to put away in one evening.
Bright and thick vegan tomato bisque was actually a special of the day, conjuring up memories of dreary winter days, and would have perfectly paired with a grilled cheese sandwich.Thinly sliced fried green tomatoes were piping hot, perfectly breaded, and topped with a tangy and spicy remoulade. The best dish we sampled.
The grilled vegan sausage sandwich had a bit of pep from the roasted poblanos, red onions, pickles, creole mustard. The side of mac and cheese was bland and dry.The vegan fried seitan po-boy seemed so similar to the grilled vegan sausage sandwich, that I'd like to see one of the two omitted from the menu, and a barbecue pulled seitan sandwich on a soft roll make it onto the menu, since there currently isn't a vegetarian or vegan barbecue option.

The side of sweet potato fries were on par.
Bourbon, pecans, and red velvet were all over the dessert menu, but we only had room to split one, so went with the maple bourbon creme brulee. A thick, crackly sugar top gave way to a smooth, bourbon-heavy, but thin custard. The taste and texture was all there, just a little thickening was needed.

Obviously an initial run through of the menu with the staff, and a gracious preview for the guests, Khyber Pass Pub has some expected, initial-opening kinks to work out. I think the Khyber probably made a wise choice to keep the venue a bar, as they have such a loyal following — and apparently mostly men, 'cause it was one hot sausage fest up in there!

For those living on the northerly end of town, you'll be pleased to know that Khyber Pass Pub reads like a more spacious Royal Tavern, a sibling bar in South Philly . . . and that's not a bad thing.

Khyber Pass Pub
56 S. 2nd St., Philadelphia, PA 19106
215-238-5888
Bar: every day 11am-2am
Kitchen: every day 11am-1am

Membrillo

Here's a fun project if your pantry if over stocked with jellies and jams from the summer canning season, but you just can't help yourself from the joys of boiling fruit and sugar: make membrillo!

Membrillo, or quince paste, is a thick, sweet fruit paste traditionally paired with Manchego, a Spanish sheep's milk cheese, but, really, don't stop at just one kind of cheese. And don't stop at cheese, either. How about using membrillo in a pastry?

If you're not familiar with quince, quince is a hard fruit related to apples and pears, and has a most beautiful, sweet floral aroma. Quince is most often cooked, as it's too sour for most people to eat out of hand.

Quince are in season now, and because I run into quince a bit at work, I decided to tackle the recipe for membrillo in the current Vegetarian Times. Extremely easy, and quite impressive when you whip out a last minute cheese plate and can brag about your homemade membrillo.You'll start by peeling, coring, and chopping the quince. Then you'll cover the quince along with a few strips of lemon peel with water, and simmer covered until tender.Whirl the quince and lemon peel around in a food processor, then add it back to the pot along with sugar and a little lemon juice.
From here, you just simmer until the puree reduces to a very thick paste and magically turns a lovely shade of pinkish orange. Tannins are the magic.Spread the paste in a parchment paper-lined container for easy lifting when the paste is done chilling and firming, then cut off a few slices to enjoy.Membrillo
adapted from Vegetarian Times
makes about 1 cup

2 quince, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
3 strips of lemon peel
sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice

• In a medium saucepan, add quince and lemon peel. Add enough water to the saucepan to cover the quince. Bring water to a boil, then cover and reduce to a simmer. Simmer 10-30 minutes, or until tender (yours may take significantly longer to become tender depending on the fruit). Drain water from quince.
• Add quince and lemon peel to a food processor and puree. Measure the volume of the quince puree, then return quince puree to the saucepan.
• How ever much quince puree you have, add an equal amount of sugar to the sauce pan, along with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
  
• Simmer quince and sugar mixture over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 45-90 minutes.
  
• Transfer quince paste to a parchment paper-lined container, and cool.
• Unmold quince paste, and slice.
  

Rant - Breakfast Sides

Almost every major (and not so major) city I've been in has bruncheries that offer a vegetarian protein side like tempeh or seitan sausage for breakfast. Here in Philly, this is almost non-existent.

Now, I don't expect a traditional greasy diner to offer tempeh as a breakfast side. I'm talking to all the restaurants in Philly that already do a tofu scramble or have a tempeh club on the menu, so are obviously aware of and cater to vegetarians.

I would love a side of tempeh with my pancakes. And I especially would love to not be charged full price for the breakfast platter that I have to request have bacon or sausage removed.

Why Philly? Why?

*Picture is NOT from a menu in Philly.