Geechee Girl Rice Café

Geechee Girl Rice Café is a BYOB in Germantown specializing in traditional Southern rice dishes. As a Carolina girl and rice lover, this restaurant has been on my “list” for a couple of years. A trip to Germantown last weekend allowed for a visit.

Geechee (and also Gullah) refers to descendants of Africans who brought their rice-growing skills from West Africa and worked the rice plantations of the Low Country and Sea Islands of South Carolina and Georgia as slaves. A rice eating culture developed amongst the slaves and non-slaves of South Carolina that is present to this day. Mashed potatoes and dinner rolls are not supper's star starch in South Carolina; rice is.

Carolina Gold is the rice once grown on the coast of South Carolina, and has been resurrected by those interested in heirloom grains. Carolina Gold is a long-grain rice, but seems rather short because it is subject to breaking during threshing. To get your hands on some Carolina Gold around here, you’re gonna have to mail order…or go to Geechee Girl Rice Café.

Not all menu items at Geechee Girl are purely Southern. Chinese, Thai, and other world cuisines influence the mostly Southern menu at Geechee Girl. The two salad specials we ordered fall into the category of “not Southern,” but were tasty nonetheless.

The Brie, candied pecan, pear, and mixed green salad was quite good. The pecans were perfectly candied, and not bitter from over roasting. The Brie lent heft to the salad, and the pears tasted delicately of roses (they were soaked in something – missed it, though).

The beet and goat cheese salad was also a special, and how can you go wrong with this classic pairing? Rosemary was noticeable, but not overbearing.

Vegetarian items are clearly marked on the menu, although most vegetarian items are sides. Not a problem here, as the classic Southern sides are what I came to get.

There are two Southern sides traditionally served atop rice, though, that I was upset not to find. I’m not sure how they could not include stewed tomatoes and okra, but it’s missing. While they do have the traditional meat-inclusive hoppin’ John, I was hoping for a vegetarian version. Vegetarians will have to settle for black beans. So...I went rice-less.

The buttermilk biscuit is perfect – flaky, tender, a tastes like butter! I don’t think you can improve their biscuit, except by ordering two.

Collard greens come two ways at Geechee Girl – the traditional slow-cooked way, or the more modern blanched and sautéed way. I went with the blanched and sautéed greens, as that’s how I cook mine. These collards rock! The greens are not bitter, and loaded with caramelized onions and garlic. The garlic breath is fierce!

The grits were thick, creamy, and seasoned perfectly with salt. I would have liked to have had black pepper on my grits, but Geechee Girl is one of those restaurants that doesn’t provide salt and pepper shakers on tables. Unfortunately, there were a few distracting lumps in the grits.

The fish-eater ordered the salmon special of the day atop Carolina Gold rice (jasmine, brown, and wehani rice are also an option) with a side of sautéed collards. No complaints from that side of the table.

We were too full for dessert. (Knew I shouldn't have ordered a salad!)

I’ve read complaints about the service speed at Geechee Girl, and I will confirm that it is slow. It’s not neglectful or unprofessional, it’s just not the speedy service you’re used to at most restaurants wishing to turn your table for profit. If you’re a water guzzler or have a movie to get to, you’re gonna be a little bothered. Otherwise, it’s best to sit back and take it easy.

My only real complaint with Geechee Girl is the irksome note on the menu that a fee of $3 will be applied to shared plates. No one comes to dining establishments of this level to wheedle their way into a cheap dinner by sharing; they’re sharing for the sake of experiencing all the fine food. (Edit - Please note explanation of charge in comments below.)

Oh, and note that it’s cash only!


Geechee Girl Rice Café
6825 Germantown Pike, Philadelphia, PA 19119

215-843-8113

Tues.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.; Sun.-Mon., closed.

10 comments:

reluctantMANGO said...

Sounds wonderful! It seems we have another thing in common... I'm a Carolina girl too :) though you taught me something new about the rice!

Taylor said...

reluctantmango - Small, small world!

Jenn said...

Yo, what the heck??? You ate dinner two blocks from my house and didn't invite me?!?! Well, I gotta say I'm glad to see the positive review for this place as they buy a lot of stuff from the farm. Those collards you ate were most likely grown (in part) by yours truly. Now, come again and eat there with me! I'm dying to be your "partner" sometime!

Taylor said...

Jenn - Ummm...you had an invite for that evening, but I believe you opted for a romantic dinner with your bf! I'm sure you made the wiser choice, but next time...

Jenn said...

Ooooh, it was *that* night. well, okay, my bad. Next time though! BTW, are you taking the show on the road with you in Portugal? :) If you are, then I'll have plenty of opportunities to be your partner. Eggcellent!

Cakespy said...

That biscuit is totally making me hungry. That and the salad with the toasted nuts. How lovely.

not the geechee girl said...

Foremost, want to say that this is an absolutely beautiful blog. 2ndly, when the heck did you come to Geechee Girl? We've been discussing it, and none of us knew that you were there. How on earth did we miss a patron w/ a camera? I'm sure I wasn't working that day – LOL. Beautiful pics, btw.

Lastly, about the "irksome" plating charge: although I am not "the Geechee Girl" (her sense of etiquette would insist that I not comment) I feel compelled to respond. You, and your subscribers should know that we do not impose it upon folk who are sampling each other’s food selections. Rather, it is imposed upon people who clearly come w/the intent of not spending money on food.

We have folk who come at opening, stay long after closing and don't spend $20. The Geechee Girl's expectation (as it should be) is that we will graciously receive, serve and bid farewell to them like we would any other patrons, but for a struggling business that is a very costly service. i.e., A couple came in, were promptly seated and given menus. The server approached them thrice about ordering, and each time they were "not quite ready." Finally, as the hostess I went over to determine why they hadn't ordered. Their response – “oh, do we have to order something?” We are in the business of selling food. Would you go to the movies and say to the attendant, "oh we don't need to purchase tickets. We aren't really planning to watch the movie. We just want to talk"? Even if you didn't watch the movie you'd still have to pay the movie-watching fee.

When folk who are more interested in talking w/ each other than in eating come into our establishment they literally cost us money. Minimally we have to staff a cook, a dishwasher, a server, and a cashier to attend to lingering customers. 4 staff people paid by the hour (well maybe we could release the cook) for 2 customers to sit until 11:30 (we close at 9) without spending $20. That's no exaggeration. It happens all the time. So the sharing charge is for them, and even then we very, very often do not impose it. We never, ever impose it on folk who have clearly come to dine. We just reserve the right to do so, and we kind of want to remind people that it costs us money to let them socialize without dining.

Taylor said...

not the geechee girl - Thanks for the compliment on the blog. I was in on Valentine's weekend and I travel with a small camera!

Thanks, also, for addressing the plate sharing charge. I thought it a little strange, but now I know that it's only for extreme cases. God bless people like yourself that work at restaurants. I don't know if I could deal with such ridiculous behavior from customers.

Rae said...

I LOVE LOVE LOVE Geechee Girl. The food is always perfectly prepared -without fail. Granted, the food may not arrive at your table 15 minutes after ordering it like it does in most restaurants, but you don't perfectly fry fish, and prepare the most delicious biscuits in 15 minutes. My advice to people whoo have never been, don't go starving. It's all worth the wait - and the service is alwasy friendly, professional - and RELAXED - like a nice dinner should be.

Barbara said...

I read previous reviews must have been friends please review dates posted. Getting straight to the point! If bland, unappealing, season less food is your preference then this is the place for you. The over pricing of the appi’s, entrees and child size portions adds insult to injury. Honestly I’ve had better tasting, prepared and presented food, free at my Nonie’s house. Someone should clue the cook? That we eat with our eyes first. The only thing “low down country” style about this restaurant is the price and the attitude of the host/owner whom if you ask questions might tell us to just “SHUT UP” and eat.
This place is definitely “caveat emptor” (let the buyer beware or better yet the EATER!)

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